ASK DR. BOB!
 
Bob Pollock isn't an actual doctor but he is the director of the Penn State Cooperative Extension in Indiana County and Bob knows plants.

Bob makes an appearance on the Indiana in the Morning show with Todd Marino every Friday and answers questions from callers. Now he wants to share that knowledge with you here in online videos and answer your questions about gardening, landscaping, and just plants in general. He'll visit Musser Forests Garden Center and Yarnick's Farm, and maybe he'll even visit you, to address your botanical concerns. So ask Dr. Bob anything and he'll address your question right here at ... ASK DR. BOB.

E-mail your questions or a topic you'd like Bob to discuss to askdrbob@wdadradio.com (or copy/paste the address into your favorite e-mail program).
Garden Tip
Shrubs should be pruned just like trees. Most people simply “trim” shrubs by taking off the outer layer of the shrub with shears, but never give any thought to thinning out the shrub internally. Because some shrubs can become quite thick with dead branches lying inside the bush, they need some attention to keep them light and airy and proportioned. The idea of pruning a shrub is to thin out the dead, internal branches, or the dead canes that collect inside the shrub as the new canes grow on the outer part of the bush. To do this you will need a pruning shears and lopping shears.

Although, most shrubs that bloom early should be pruned immediately after they bloom in the spring or after new growth begins, hedges can be pruned twice a year in the spring and again in mid-summer. Hedges should be pruned to be wider at the base that at the top so that all part of the hedge receives sunlight. If taken care of properly, the hedge will remain attractive and healthy for a long time.
- Paula Bracken
Here are two helpful pdf documents:
Pruning Trees
Pruning Ornamental Plants

Here are more important links from the Ask Dr. Bob show:
Tomato Blight, Summer 2010 - What can we expect? (Penn State Cooperative Extension)
 Lyme Disease: Handouts, PowerPoints and Recorded Webcasts
Artillery Fungus - Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Ask Dr. Bob Videos

Ask Dr. Bob Photos

Have a look at what Dr. Bob is examining now
Dr. Bob Archives
Bob visits Musser Forests Garden Center
Planting a Variety Pot
Planting a Tree
Bob visits Yarnick's Farm

About zucchini
About cabbage

Some Causes of Failure in Plantings
1. Not planting stock right away, allowing roots to dry out.
 
2. Too deep planting. And plant should be planted not more than an inch deeper than it stood in the nursey row. The earth mark may readily be seen on each plant.
 
3. Lack of moisture, especially during dry summer months. Plants should be watered frequently, especially in the first year.
 
4. TOO MUCH FERTILIZER. You can kill a plant with kindness. Never put a concentrated fertilizer in the hole with the plant and any place it can touch the roots unless the manufacturer specifies so.
 
5. Poor drainage. Evergeens thrive in a well drained soil and good subsoil.
 
6. Moisture stress in winter and summer due to drying winds, especially Rhododendron, Azelea, Dogwood, Holly, Hemlock, Fir, Serbian Spruce, and Red Cedar which are more sensitive than others.
 
7. Inadequate protection of small plants in summer. All seedlings and transplants under three years should be mulched in the fall with clippings, straw or leaves.
 
8. Injuries from dogs and cats. The cause of lower branches of smaller Evergreens turning brown and, in some cases killing the plant may be the result of dogs urinating on plants.
 
9. Salt spray from highways. Be sure to set plants far enough back from the street that they will not be splashed by salt spray.
 
- Courtesy of Musser Garden Center
Yarnick Videos
 
 
 
 
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